Modelling was strictly limited over the Christmas holiday but I still managed to do a little research and take a crafty look at the MSE level crossing gate instructions. It was in May last year when I first explained how I intended using the
MSE kit and as I said at the time the parts are very nicely detailed and of good quality. But beware for this is not a snap together instant solution to producing a pair of crossing gates as only basic instructions along with annotated drawings of various gates are provided. This isn't a criticism as its fairly easy to work out what modifications are needed to produce the gates that you wish to model from the information provided. If you are lucky enough to come across a few photos of the real thing then all the better.
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The gates pivot on a length of 26 swg wire which passes through a small split pin inserted into the gatepost and then down through a piece of 'Mercontrol' or similar tube inserted into the post base, the latter represents the lower bearing which on the prototype is set into the ground. The operating wire then passes down through the baseboard for connection to your chosen method of actuation. |
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These are the modifications needed to produce a short GWR style gate from the basic castings. Drawings are also provided for other styles of gate along with notes explaining any modifications which might be needed. |
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The first gate with etched target, top hinges and chequer plate base overlay. The lamp casting was drilled to accept a wire peg and the top of the gate drilled to receive it. Nothing more than a drop of 'Cyano' was used to secure the etched detail and lamp casting. |
It was always my intention to operate the gates digitally using nothing more than my forefingers as with the exception of operating signals I have little time for other gimmicks or gadgetry. Had I intended exhibiting the layout it might have been a different matter but for my own personal home use I didn't feel that it was worth the hassle or expense and I would rather spend my modelling time creating the things that interest me. However should I change my mind the pivot wires are long enough to connect to a mechanical or electrical means of operation in which case I would use the same simple Tortoise actuators that control my signals. Others might prefer something like
this to control their
crossing gates but I prefer simpler things!
So with the first pair of gates constructed I set about preparing the ground around the crossing to receive them, a decision also had to be made regarding any pedestrian wicket gates, some crossings had them and others didn't.
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Having carefully marked out the position of the first gate the road surface and surrounding ground was carefully cut away to receive the post and then made good with a little DAS modelling clay. In the end I decided against modelling any wicket gates because as you can see here the crossing would be dangerously close to the river bridge, it wasn't possible to install them on the other side of the crossing near the signal box due to the point rodding. Had I used a modified version of the Peco gate as originally intended then all would have been well due to their smaller size. On the subject of wicket gates I came across some interesting information here should you be interested in the topic. |
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With the first gate temporarily fitted in place the position of the second one and its post were marked off from it and the road surface cut away as before, the posts will actually sit lower in the ground once they are installed permanently but first they and the gates need to be painted and have some netting fitted, the latter is supplied in the kit and really looked the part when trial fitted in place. Alas the job has now stalled because its far too cold for spraying primer in the garage and without any means of extracting paint fumes I can't do it indoors, that's unless I can persuade my better half to indulge in a days retail therapy, mind you it might be cheaper to invest in a spray booth and extractor rather than suggest such a thing :-) |
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You will have to excuse the wonky gates and post for now but rest assured everything will be set up square and true once they are painted and installed permanently. |
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...............but there is no excuse for the bridge plank on the right which is one of those to do jobs that is yet to be done! The truth is that I had forgotten all about it as its not visible with the naked eye but true to form the camera has picked it out once again. |
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Who would think that those points were 'B' and 'C' 7's and the curve is around 6ft radius! The lime wash on the cottage has taken a right battering during in the winter months. |
Looking at the photo below I'm not sure if a second pair of level crossing gates would have been installed here as the goods yard is private property and so is the land beyond, so perhaps a simple
occupation crossing would have been provided?
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Any 'Occupation Crossing' gates had to open away from the line rather than across it as with a level crossing. At the moment I'm working my way through various books looking for examples of the real thing but for now the jury is out. |
The whole layout is now rapidly nearing completion, a tree and hedgerow building session is on the horizon and the allotments need modelling, then it will be a case of smoothing over the rough edges and adding the small details which are too numerous to list. I shall then complete the first of two articles for the model press and spend some time building new items of rolling stock and updating and improving older models.
Finally some photos showing the crossing scene 'Past & Present...........
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The crossing scene is rapidly coming together now, travelling back in time the photo below shows the scene in September 2013. |
......and again in the previous May during the early planning stages.
So with this latest update complete its time to sit down with with a couple of books and read how that master of scenic modelling Barry Norman goes about creating different types of vegetables, soil and all those other things needed for an allotment.