I rather enjoy building my own track from sleeper strip and plastic chairs, as for me, its far more satisfying than using off the shelf flexi track. Not that I'm knocking the flexi, as I used it to good effect on 'Penhydd', and earlier layouts. However I found it very hard to paint plastic sleepers to resemble wood, and despite priming them I found the paint still flaked off. Following Tim Maddocks advice I always used to cut the web linking the sleepers away, its simple enough to do and makes a huge difference.
This is C & L track with, and without the web, which is easy enough to remove once the track is laid. Not only does the track look better, but it makes ballasting far easier, it also makes it possible to reduce the sleeper spacing at track joints. However on the original Llangunllo I returned to using ply sleepers, and as they say, nothing looks more like wood, than wood.
I started off by laying the goods yard siding and its catch point, some modellers add the ballast once the sleepers have been laid, and before any rail goes down. Though I can see how it makes the job easier, I prefer to complete the track, then wire and test it before ballasting, a case of each to his own.
The inside rail of the main running line was laid in next, pins held it in place whilst the curve was checked by eye for any dog legs, or kinks.
Once happy with the alignment, each chair was cemented to its sleeper using solvent. The bound is remarkably strong, for the solvent melts the base of the plastic chair, and soaks into the ply sleepers.
Once the inner rail chairs had set, the outer rail was added using triangular track gauges, these not only hold the rail in place, but also set the necessary gauge widening. Here they are being used to set the outer rail on the loop, notice how the single leg of each gauge is on the inner rail, use them the other way around and you've got problems! I've opted for single blade catch points, the one here is a little close to the point, a baseboard cross member prevented it from being mounted further back, so much for all the advanced planning! Meanwhile the driver of 1455 is showing a keen interest in what is going on :-)
And so the next length of rail was added, following the same sequence, inner rail laid first, and then the outer gauged from it.
The fishplates were fitted next, now if you think threading hundreds of chairs onto rail is a challenge, then just wait until you fit these! Some, like the ones here are just cosmetic, in which case a drop of 'cyano' can be used to secure them, or they can be soldered in place to join rails together, and provide a convenient means for attaching dropper wires for track feeds. I use a mix both methods, and a solder cream if I sweat them in place.
This fret of etched plates is available from the EMGS stores, they are separated from the etch in 'H' shaped pairs, then folded up as per the example in the bottom right corner. Plenty of patience and a steady hand is needed, when working with these. Though its tempting to install them all in one go, and get the job out of the way, I feel its one of those jobs which is best done in odd moments, a few at a time is plenty. Where an insulated plate is needed a C&L plastic moulding can be glued in place, or you can do, as I do, and make your own from styrene strip.
This is C & L track with, and without the web, which is easy enough to remove once the track is laid. Not only does the track look better, but it makes ballasting far easier, it also makes it possible to reduce the sleeper spacing at track joints. However on the original Llangunllo I returned to using ply sleepers, and as they say, nothing looks more like wood, than wood.
I started off by laying the goods yard siding and its catch point, some modellers add the ballast once the sleepers have been laid, and before any rail goes down. Though I can see how it makes the job easier, I prefer to complete the track, then wire and test it before ballasting, a case of each to his own.
With the siding laid, I completed the buffer stop, taking care to leave an insulating gap between it and the rails, to prevent any chance of a short circuit.
The inside rail of the main running line was laid in next, pins held it in place whilst the curve was checked by eye for any dog legs, or kinks.
Once happy with the alignment, each chair was cemented to its sleeper using solvent. The bound is remarkably strong, for the solvent melts the base of the plastic chair, and soaks into the ply sleepers.
Once the inner rail chairs had set, the outer rail was added using triangular track gauges, these not only hold the rail in place, but also set the necessary gauge widening. Here they are being used to set the outer rail on the loop, notice how the single leg of each gauge is on the inner rail, use them the other way around and you've got problems! I've opted for single blade catch points, the one here is a little close to the point, a baseboard cross member prevented it from being mounted further back, so much for all the advanced planning! Meanwhile the driver of 1455 is showing a keen interest in what is going on :-)
And so the next length of rail was added, following the same sequence, inner rail laid first, and then the outer gauged from it.
The fishplates were fitted next, now if you think threading hundreds of chairs onto rail is a challenge, then just wait until you fit these! Some, like the ones here are just cosmetic, in which case a drop of 'cyano' can be used to secure them, or they can be soldered in place to join rails together, and provide a convenient means for attaching dropper wires for track feeds. I use a mix both methods, and a solder cream if I sweat them in place.
This fret of etched plates is available from the EMGS stores, they are separated from the etch in 'H' shaped pairs, then folded up as per the example in the bottom right corner. Plenty of patience and a steady hand is needed, when working with these. Though its tempting to install them all in one go, and get the job out of the way, I feel its one of those jobs which is best done in odd moments, a few at a time is plenty. Where an insulated plate is needed a C&L plastic moulding can be glued in place, or you can do, as I do, and make your own from styrene strip.
Eventually the end of the scenic section was reached, the sleepers are yet to be stained. I'll be using weak washes of Humbrol 'Gunmetal Metalcoat' enamel to do that, varying the mix as I go along, so they are not all the same shade. The chairs, and rails also need to be painted, but I'm leaving those until the track has been ballasted, as the various colours will run into the ballast thus helping to provide an initial degree of weathering. The new point rodding needs to be installed before ballasting takes place, and as usual I'll be using 'Carr's' ash, no neat ballast shoulders for me, for most branch lines simply didn't have them.
Finally, another glimpse into my minds eye, as 1455 runs into the station with the usual single coach passenger train. The big question is, is it worth faffing around with individual rail chairs and flimsy etched fishplates? Well, I think it is on a small layout like this, for those small details make all the difference, adding the interest that might otherwise be lacking, due to the layouts simplicity in other areas.
Finally, another glimpse into my minds eye, as 1455 runs into the station with the usual single coach passenger train. The big question is, is it worth faffing around with individual rail chairs and flimsy etched fishplates? Well, I think it is on a small layout like this, for those small details make all the difference, adding the interest that might otherwise be lacking, due to the layouts simplicity in other areas.