Its almost two years since I installed Wills point rodding on the old layout, but since then Modelu have arrived on the scene with a rather nice Blackall's/GWR point rodding stool. I took a look at this new product earlier this year, and was very impressed with the finely detailed 3D prints. Since then they have been stored away along with some 0.4 mm square wire from MSE, and a Brassmasters etch for the cranks, compensator's and other bits and pieces. I expect you are wondering why I didn't leave things as they were, after all the old rodding didn't look too bad really. But I knew it could be better, and I like to experiment with new products, techniques, and ideas. Its what drives me on, and keeps me interested in modelling.
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I'll be honest, hold my hands up and admit that I've been putting the job off for a while now, for it can be a fiddly, frustrating detail to add. Anyway I set myself the goal of having it sorted by Christmas, because the thought of doing it has been hanging over me like a dark cloud. Its silly to think that way really, and all too easy to talk yourself out of doing a particular task. But once you decide to get on with things it often turns out far easier than you imagined. So I started to strip the old rodding away, preparing the surface for its replacement as I went along.
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Normally I like to lay point rodding whilst track laying, but in this case it wasn't possible. So I hit upon the idea of assembling as much as possible on my workbench, and then installing it onto the layout in sections. So I took a rubbing of the track work, marking the positions of the FPL's, cranks, compensator's and stretcher bars. I also visited CLAGS website, looking for hints, tips, and general information on the subject.
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I don't know how I managed without my rather tatty soldering mat, for its a godsend when assembling small parts like you see here. The other side is in pristine condition, so there's plenty of life left in it yet. Before removing the parts from the etch, all the holes were opened up with a broach, and the baseplates were attached to a piece of ply sleeper strip. Holes were then drilled right through the sleeper strip, and the wire pivots were pushed through into the soldering pad. Which makes it easier to handle the parts whilst they are being soldered, and cleaned up. The ply will also provide a firm base which can be sunk into the underlay on the layout.
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I always use 145 degree solder, and 9% phosphoric flux for jobs like this. If the parts, and soldering iron tip have been well cleaned, then the solder will flow instantly, giving a sound joint. Rather than add the solder to the joint as you would when soldering an electrical connection, a small speck is applied to the soldering iron bit, and carried to the joint.
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I'll be honest, hold my hands up and admit that I've been putting the job off for a while now, for it can be a fiddly, frustrating detail to add. Anyway I set myself the goal of having it sorted by Christmas, because the thought of doing it has been hanging over me like a dark cloud. Its silly to think that way really, and all too easy to talk yourself out of doing a particular task. But once you decide to get on with things it often turns out far easier than you imagined. So I started to strip the old rodding away, preparing the surface for its replacement as I went along.
Normally I like to lay point rodding whilst track laying, but in this case it wasn't possible. So I hit upon the idea of assembling as much as possible on my workbench, and then installing it onto the layout in sections. So I took a rubbing of the track work, marking the positions of the FPL's, cranks, compensator's and stretcher bars. I also visited CLAGS website, looking for hints, tips, and general information on the subject.
I don't know how I managed without my rather tatty soldering mat, for its a godsend when assembling small parts like you see here. The other side is in pristine condition, so there's plenty of life left in it yet. Before removing the parts from the etch, all the holes were opened up with a broach, and the baseplates were attached to a piece of ply sleeper strip. Holes were then drilled right through the sleeper strip, and the wire pivots were pushed through into the soldering pad. Which makes it easier to handle the parts whilst they are being soldered, and cleaned up. The ply will also provide a firm base which can be sunk into the underlay on the layout.
I always use 145 degree solder, and 9% phosphoric flux for jobs like this. If the parts, and soldering iron tip have been well cleaned, then the solder will flow instantly, giving a sound joint. Rather than add the solder to the joint as you would when soldering an electrical connection, a small speck is applied to the soldering iron bit, and carried to the joint.
My workbench is currently swamped with projects, so I made a temporary working area with my old trusty 'workmate' and a chunk of ply. The point rodding plan was then attached to a piece of 'Palight' foamboard, and a start was made on assembling the first run of rodding. Ignore the track under construction in the background, that is a separate project.
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This is the first section, its waiting for two more cranks and a single compensator. As you can see I've also attached the rodding stools to another piece of sleeper strip, I found that neat EvoStick PVA bonds them firmly in place. Apart from acting as a base, the ply acts as a handy grip for threading the stools onto the rods. Once each stool is threaded, they are cut off and cleaned up, stools were originally spaced at six foot interval, later increased to nine. So I've spaced mine at a touch over six feet to give an equal distance between them.
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Close ups are ever so cruel, this view shows the arrangement of the point rod cranks, and signal wire pulleys as the emerge from the locking frame under the signal box. The rods under the track are just being tried for size, before being bent to shape and attached to the cranks. The Brassmasters bases are a touch on the large size, but once painted they won't appear as big. Apart from the pulleys and single rodding stool, which are from the MSE range, all the components are from the Brassmasters etch. Everything is mounted on ply point timbers, and secured with cyano. The facing point lock is a Wills moulding which survived from the old rodding installation, and will eventually be covered with a protective ramp
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Another view with the signal box and walkway in place, the latter will be moved slightly forward, once the installation is complete.
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The first complete section of rodding prior to painting. So whats the verdict, well for me the combination of Modelu stools, Brassmasters etched cranks, and MSE 0.4 mm square rod works well. Its certainly easier to construct rodding in this manner, and it looks far better than anything I've used before. Obviously you need a lot of patience, and need to take your time, forward planning is essential. But these components make point rodding achievable if you are prepared to invest a little time. The last run down to the trap point on the goods siding is now ready to be installed, and since typing this up. the rodding in the above photo has been bent to shape and connected up.
This is the first section, its waiting for two more cranks and a single compensator. As you can see I've also attached the rodding stools to another piece of sleeper strip, I found that neat EvoStick PVA bonds them firmly in place. Apart from acting as a base, the ply acts as a handy grip for threading the stools onto the rods. Once each stool is threaded, they are cut off and cleaned up, stools were originally spaced at six foot interval, later increased to nine. So I've spaced mine at a touch over six feet to give an equal distance between them.
Close ups are ever so cruel, this view shows the arrangement of the point rod cranks, and signal wire pulleys as the emerge from the locking frame under the signal box. The rods under the track are just being tried for size, before being bent to shape and attached to the cranks. The Brassmasters bases are a touch on the large size, but once painted they won't appear as big. Apart from the pulleys and single rodding stool, which are from the MSE range, all the components are from the Brassmasters etch. Everything is mounted on ply point timbers, and secured with cyano. The facing point lock is a Wills moulding which survived from the old rodding installation, and will eventually be covered with a protective ramp
Another view with the signal box and walkway in place, the latter will be moved slightly forward, once the installation is complete.
The first complete section of rodding prior to painting. So whats the verdict, well for me the combination of Modelu stools, Brassmasters etched cranks, and MSE 0.4 mm square rod works well. Its certainly easier to construct rodding in this manner, and it looks far better than anything I've used before. Obviously you need a lot of patience, and need to take your time, forward planning is essential. But these components make point rodding achievable if you are prepared to invest a little time. The last run down to the trap point on the goods siding is now ready to be installed, and since typing this up. the rodding in the above photo has been bent to shape and connected up.