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Point rodding the Wills way..........

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Would you believe that its a year to the day since I last mentioned my experiences with the Wills point rodding components?  http://radnorailways.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/Point%20Rodding  Since then I've finished the installation apart from the FPL fouling bars as I've yet to decided on a method of modelling them, in fact I might leave them out and assume that the locking was achieved by track circuits, in which case  'Economical facing point locks' (EFPL's) would have been used.  Had I been using scale components of the type produced by both MSE and Brassmasters then the fouling bars would have been soldered up from brass wire and strip but they would look wrong when mixed with the larger Wills plastic components.  Don't get me wrong as I've not given up but am merely experimenting with a few ideas, whether they work or not will be open to question?

Anyway moving on, I carefully refined the Wills components as so.........

I trimmed the rods down by running a new curved scalpel blade along all four sides and then finished them off with nail boards and fine wet and dry paper, introducing a gentle taper towards the top in the process.  I also ran the knife blade along the edges of all the other components in an attempt to reduce their size as much as possible.  The styrene reinforcement pieces were filed down once set and also tapered along their edges.  It took me around twenty minutes to prepare each piece, at first I suffered a few breakages until I got a feel for the job.  I've included an MSE stool casting in the photo so you can compare them with the Wills components.  Was it worth refining the parts? - well I like to think so.

Purist please look away now as the art of compromise has been practised yet again :-)  Here we have the final bits and pieces being added prior to the last section of track being ballasted.  Its far easier to lay all the rodding before ballasting otherwise its difficult to set everything up level, once the ballast has set around the bases the whole installation becomes very secure. 
Up until now I have stopped short of posting any photos of the track directly in front of the signal box and there was a good reason for that.  To put it simply I mislaid my stock of Carr's ash ballast and didn't fancy buying fresh supplies if I could avoid it.  So I decided to wait until the point above had been ballasted and the rodding painted before posting any photos.  Fortunately the missing ballast turned up last week when we dug out the Christmas decorations, yeah, well, don't ask :-)  So I got cracking, completed the job, then painted the rodding with Precision paints weathered wood enamel.

Now for a quick word about the job we all love to hate, ballasting.  I've been using Carr's ash ballast for some years now, on Penhydd I brushed neat PVA between each sleeper and then tamped it in place but on Llangunllo and at the suggestion of Jim Smith-Wright I applied the ballast loose and then touched the edges of it with brush loads of 'Johnsons Kleer'.  I must admit I was a little dubious but the 'Kleer' was quickly drawn into the ballast by capillary action, making light work of what can be a real chore, cheers Jim.

Twenty four hours later the ballast had dried out to a more natural colour and I weathered the rodding and cranks by dry brushing them with Humbrol dark earth until I was happy with their appearance.  Using the Wills components is not a cheap option and to model this small length from the level crossing to the trap point I needed two packs.  This was because there are only two compensator's in each pack and I needed three,  I also ran out of medium downset drives and small base plates for the cranks.  Two other things to bear in mind are the amount of time and patience required when assembling the parts and that applies whether you thin them down as I did or use them as intended. 
The other options for point rodding in 4mm scale are to use the almost scale castings and etches from MSE or Brassmasters.  I used the former on Penhydd but could hardly see my handiwork once it was in place on the layout and painted.

Here we have some MSE components left over from Penhydd, whilst the etch of cranks, pulleys and base plates is fine I think I would use the Brassmasters etched stools rather than the castings shown above.
With the ballast and rodding in place I was able to start work on the cottage and signal box area.  First of all some fencing was glued into pre drilled holes in the baseboard, I used a section of Ratio GWR station fencing salvaged from Penhydd, it will eventually be extended around the side of the cottage then painted and weathered as I see fit.  A small shed for the cottage garden has been constructed from styrene and a wooden walkway has been built from sleeper strip to cover the point rodding in front of the signal box. 
I'm not a fan of helicopter views but they do have their uses, the rodding is far from perfect but at least it can be seen and I'm happy with the results which is all that matters.  

No doubt the Wills components could be used as intended with Peco or other similar track systems but I feel that it pays to modify them.  More information on the subject of point rodding can be found in MRJ No's 113 & 115 in which Steve Hall gives an interesting account of both the prototype and modelling it.


Christmas and train sets, ( Take 2 )

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For the past couple of weeks I've not made much progress on the layout, in fact until yesterday it was a tight squeeze to enter the railway room as I've been working on a simple first train set for two of our grandsons.  Its only a simple oval with a passing loop and siding but it will enable them to have some fun and hopefully they will be bitten by the model railway bug, if so then the layout can easily be extended.  Its a long time since I've laid Hornby track and once it was all in place it obviously needed testing.  Now despite having recently purchased a rolling road the opportunity to test some of my yet to be converted '00' models was too good to miss, so out they came and I have to admit that I had a fantastic time watching various locos going around in circles.  But what amazed me was the quality of the running which was superb considering that I was only using a simple Hornby transformer / controller, locos could easily be brought down to a crawl and realistic stops and starts were possible with no trouble whatsoever, the 4mm modeller has never had it so good.

Anyway moving on, I nipped into the local model shop the other day to purchase some bits and pieces, trade was brisk and a chap in front of me spent £400 in one go then placed an order for a further £75 worth of goods, so you can imagine how I felt when I parted with a miserly £28.  The owner of the shop has become a close friend and told me he his stock was flying off the shelves so it looks like the Christmas train set is doing very well which is excellent news.  He also had an early Christmas present for me in the form of an old Lima Railcar....

I bought this none runner for its body which will be needed for a future project but two motor brushes later, a wheel clean and a spot of lubrication saw it whizzing around the grandsons layout, not bad for fifteen notes and around an hours work.  The old Lima 'Pancake' motor bogie is not as bad as some would have you believe or perhaps I've just been lucky?  
Anyway enough waffle lets take a look at a few trains at Llangunllo.........

For the latest operating session I fast forwarded to the 60's and the first train to arrive was the milk empties hauled by D6331.  She is still ex works and happily gliding around on the original Dapol wheels which have have simply been pulled out to EM gauge.
Once clear of the point in front of the signal box the train will set back into the siding and be propelled down to the dairy.
In the meantime a Class 121 single car unit had arrived with a local passenger train.  I'm thinking about converting this model to a 122 but have more than enough on my workbench at the moment.
With the milk tanks safely out of the way the signal dropped and the 121 departed for Llanbister Road.  Such a shame that the backscene isn't a touch higher but there you go, yet another lesson learned for the future.



D6331 slowly propels empty milk tanks down to the dairy as the 121 heads for Llanbister Road.


The approach to the River Lugg crossing showing the full sweep of the curve through the station.
The site for the signal box has yet to be levelled and the scenery around the river banks completed.


D6331 disappears down the dairy branch, as you can see its a tight fit under the bridge!
So there you are but be warned, if all goes to plan you can expect a big surprise in the next update as yet more twists and turns are revealed.

The Last Post.......(well for this year)

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Did I say something about the die being cast a few weeks ago ?  If so I apologise because after a few twists and turns the layout now looks like this........

Yes I've come full circle and modified the old feed store by changing the original 'L' shaped floor plan to a rectangular one.  The door in the end wall was removed together with the external staircase leading up to it and the doorway was then bricked up.  A few rows of York Modelmaking slates have been fitted to the cottage and a weed infested cobblestone yard has appeared.  Why the change, well I came across a photo of a very similar group of buildings in the 'Border Life' magazine, took one look at the old feed store and said to myself, I wonder ?  
I built two of these buildings in different sizes, this is the old one from Penhydd which went to a new home when the layout was dismantled. 

Cobblestones are by Wills but coated with my usual plaster / PVA mix in an attempt to reduce the depth of the cobbles.  Weeds are made from static grass and the brambles from rubberised horsehair.  A stone water trough salvaged from Penhydd awaits its final resting place.


So there we are, the feed store has now been bedded down but the cottage needs a little work doing to it and is still removable.  Once its finished then the signal box and cottage garden will be tackled followed by two sets of level crossing gates.  One of the gatepost for the latter can be seen in the first photo beside the crossing and was being used as a reference point whilst measuring and making out the position of all the others.  This time next year I expect the layout to be all but finished and then I will be turning my attention to some stock building and perhaps a couple more loco conversions once 2217 is complete.

Last of all I would like to wish you all A Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year,

All The Best,
Geoff

Modelling the Culm Valley Light Railway........

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Just a quickie to bring this new blog to your attention in which Steve Cook will be will be sharing his experiences of modelling the Culm Valley Railway in EM.....  http://cookiesworkbench.blogspot.fr/

Just a taster cheekily lifted from Steve's blog, which is well worth a visit...........enjoy!

Couplings and Llangunllo in 2015

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Its no secret that I've been using the S & W coupling in one form or another for more years than I care to remember, yes it has its faults but its robust, reliable and relatively easy to install and maintain.  So when Paul Willis posted an update on his Beer and Buckjumpers blog about a new etched mounting plate I was naturally interested and knowing that some of you are experimenting with the couplings or on the brink of using them then I thought you might be as well.

Paul kindly offered to send me a test etch for the Mk1 version so I could do a little experimenting and a few days later it arrived together with a made up example of the coupling and a copy of the instructions.  The latter not only explain how to form the mount but also tells you all you need to know about making, installing and adjusting complete couplings.
The mount is designed to be used with the MSE AC3/3 couplings or if you prefer the earlier AC3/1 which doesn't have the delayed action feature.






Here we have a view of the test etch, a folded mount and a completed coupling.  Both the coupling loop and stirrup locate in etched holes and guides making assembly very easy and accurate.  The mount has been designed to be glued in place with a two part epoxy such as Evo-Stick Rapid 2, the idea being that the epoxy will penetrate the large etched holes in the mount and act like a rivet.
Compared with the coupling on the right which uses an MSE mount you can see just how neat Paul's etch is.  Some modellers don't bother with a mounting plate and simply melt the coupling loops and stirrups in place on plastic models but I find it easier to assemble a batch of completed couplings and install them as a single unit.
A cruel photo of the first two old guinea pigs, the Bachmann model on the left has since had the new mounts fitted as well as an etched brake lever.  

Over the past week I've been trying the mounts on a variety of modified RTR and kit built examples of stock and have found it to be easy to install, the smaller coupling loop proving to be just as reliable as the normal large one.  It goes without saying that the new mount makes for a far neater coupling and I shall be using them on all new builds and gradually fitting them to older items of stock.  There are a couple of minor issues with the Mk 1 version of the etch which are currently being addressed and the Mk2 version should soon be available for sale from 5522 Models .  Please be aware that the website is currently under construction but does give Paul's contact details should you wish to purchase the mounts once they are on sale or other products in his range.
Another useful product which I also found on Paul's blog is this high temperature ceramic soldering mat which is available from model- supplies. Their website is also under construction but full contact details and some rather interesting weathering powders are currently on view.

The mat cost £4.75 post paid and is approx 8 inches in diameter, it readily accepts pins allowing those awkward little components to be held in place whilst they are soldered together.
Now for some layout news, the new header photo should give you a clue to what I've been doing over the past few weeks and I'll explain more about that in a future post.  In the meantime here are a couple of photos showing Llangunllo, past and present..............

Twelve months ago I was in the process of modelling the station approach and had yet to decide on how to disguise the scenic exits. Though plans had been drawn up for the station building I was still undecided as to whether I would model the one at New Radnor or Portesham, in the end as you well know I chose the latter because I felt it looked right.


One year later and after many twists and turns this is how the layout looks today.  The signal box is now back on the workbench and will soon be finished, the cottage beside it is complete and most of the scenic detail around it has been added.  A few more rows of slates have been attached to the roof of the half timbered cottage and the first pair of crossing gates are in build.   

Best Wishes for the New Year,
 Geoff


















Cottage industry.......

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Towards the end of last year I actually completed the cottage that stands beside the signal box.
It was one of those projects that I started two years ago during the early planning stages of the layout and at the time I didn't know whether it would be completed and pressed into use or scrapped.  However as the layout developed and the shell of the signal box took shape, I came to the conclusion that the grouping of the two buildings beside the single road crossing was going to work, so I put things on hold and concentrated on other parts of the layout, as I wanted to make sure my other ideas would fit in the space available and that I would be able to create the sort of scene and atmosphere that I had in my minds eye.

Rather than create a cottage garden I have decided to stick with my original idea of modelling some allotments on the other side of the track and directly opposite the cottage and signal box.  So the cottage has ended up with a yard covered in stone sets and a shed.  Rather than scribe the sets in DAS or plaster I decided to experiment and scribed them into foamboard, a supply of which had been sent to me by my good friend and master model maker Iain Robinson.  I found the material to be a joy to work with and only wish I had come across it earlier.  For in no time at all I had scribed the yard and a path around the property, a driveway quickly followed and then the building was lowered in place.  After several washes of concrete and various shades of grey acrylic paint the yard started to come to life, a mix of sap green and burnt sienna acrylics was washed across a few areas in an attempt to represent moss, then some weeds and tufts of grass were planted to give a slightly unkempt look in keeping with the cottage itself.  The garden shed was cobbled together from a little plain styrene sheet and Evergreen clapboard, a window and door from some long forgotten project were pressed into use and the roof covered in tissue paper, which once painted and dusted with talc gave the effect of roofing felt.  Building the shed turned out to be an interesting little project in itself and far more satisfying than opening a box or assembling a kit.
The porch has received a different style door and a rather hefty brass lock, a gate has been placed at the top of the stone steps leading down into the yard and needs a little more greenery around the post so it blends in better.  For glazing I once again turned to my stocks of laserglaze offcuts which were kindly supplied by Brian of Shawplan, I like this material as its really glass like in appearance and very easy to cut by simply scribing a line and then snapping the material along it, curtains are made from paper, painted with cheap artist acrylics to give a slightly faded look.
A track side view, the allotments will be in the left foreground. 
Its my intention to model the allotments on the narrow stretch of grass near the track with perhaps a couple of ramshackle old sheds on the rough ground in front of them.  But before I do that I need to complete and install the crossing gates, the first pair of which are currently on my workbench. The telegraph pole is the first of many and started life as a plain Ratio moulding, a couple of arms were removed along with some moulding lines and then the complete pole was gently filed into a more convincing round shape which tapers slightly towards the top.  Real post are capped to prevent water ingress and so is my model, 5 thou styrene sheet being used in this case.  Painting was carried out with matt black, grey and chocolate Humbrol enamels which were then dusted down with talc to give a silvery grey appearance.

There is still plenty of modelling to be done around the cottage such as a small hedgerow, not to mention another gate and a little more fencing.  I really need to get a move on with that because the signal box is almost complete and ready to be installed.  Yes, you've read that correctly and I'll explain why its taken so long in the next update.

Crossing gates

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Modelling was strictly limited over the Christmas holiday but I still managed to do a little research and take a crafty look at the MSE level crossing gate instructions.  It was in May last year when I first explained how I intended using the MSE kit and as I said at the time the parts are very nicely detailed and of good quality.  But beware for this is not a snap together instant solution to producing a pair of crossing gates as only basic instructions along with annotated drawings of various gates are provided. This isn't a criticism as its fairly easy to work out what modifications are needed to produce the gates that you wish to model from the information provided.  If you are lucky enough to come across a few photos of the real thing then all the better.

The gates pivot on a length of 26 swg wire which passes through a small split pin inserted into the gatepost and then down through a piece of 'Mercontrol' or similar tube inserted into the post base, the latter represents the lower bearing which on the prototype is set into the ground.  The operating wire then passes down through the baseboard for connection to your chosen method of actuation.
These are the modifications needed to produce a short GWR style gate from the basic castings.  Drawings are also provided for other styles of gate along with notes explaining any modifications which might be needed.

The first gate with etched target, top hinges and chequer plate base overlay.  The lamp casting was drilled to accept a wire peg and the top of the gate drilled to receive it.  Nothing more than a drop of 'Cyano' was used to secure the etched detail and lamp casting. 
It was always my intention to operate the gates digitally using nothing more than my forefingers as with the exception of operating signals I have little time for other gimmicks or gadgetry.  Had I intended exhibiting the layout it might have been a different matter but for my own personal home use I didn't feel that it was worth the hassle or expense and I would rather spend my modelling time creating the things that interest me.  However should I change my mind the pivot wires are long enough to connect to a mechanical or electrical means of operation in which case I would use the same simple Tortoise actuators that control my signals. Others might prefer something like this to control their crossing gates but I prefer simpler things!

So with the first pair of gates constructed I set about preparing the ground around the crossing to receive them, a decision also had to be made regarding any pedestrian wicket gates, some crossings had them and others didn't.

Having carefully marked out the position of the first gate the road surface and surrounding ground was carefully cut away to receive the post and then made good with a little DAS modelling clay.  In the end I decided against modelling any wicket gates because as you can see here the crossing would be dangerously close to the river bridge, it wasn't possible to install them on the other side of the crossing near the signal box due to the point rodding.  Had I used a modified version of the Peco gate as originally intended then all would have been well due to their smaller size.  On the subject of wicket gates I came across some interesting information here should you be interested in the topic.

With the first gate temporarily fitted in place the position of the second one and its post were marked off from it and the road surface cut away as before, the posts will actually sit lower in the ground once they are installed permanently but first they and the gates need to be painted and have some netting fitted, the latter is supplied in the kit and really looked the part when trial fitted in place.  Alas the job has now stalled because its far too cold for spraying primer in the garage and without any means of extracting paint fumes I can't do it indoors, that's unless I can persuade my better half to indulge in a days retail therapy, mind you it might be cheaper to invest in a spray booth and extractor rather than suggest such a thing :-)

You will have to excuse the wonky gates and post for now but rest assured everything will be set up square and true once they are painted and installed permanently.


...............but there is no excuse for the bridge plank on the right which is one of those to do jobs that is yet to be done!  The truth is that I had forgotten all about it as its not visible with the naked eye but true to form the camera has picked it out once again.

Who would think that those points were 'B' and 'C' 7's and the curve is around 6ft radius!  The lime wash on the cottage has taken a right battering during in the winter months.

Looking at the photo below I'm not sure if a second pair of level crossing gates would have been installed here as the goods yard is private property and so is the land beyond, so perhaps a simple
 occupation crossing  would have been provided?


Any 'Occupation Crossing' gates had to open away from the line rather than across it as with a level crossing.  At the moment I'm working my way through various books looking for examples of the real thing but for now the jury is out. 
The whole layout is now rapidly nearing completion, a tree and hedgerow building session is on the horizon and the allotments need modelling, then it will be a case of smoothing over the rough edges and adding the small details which are too numerous to list.  I shall then complete the first of two articles for the model press and spend some time building new items of rolling stock and updating and improving older models.

 Finally some photos showing the crossing scene 'Past & Present...........

The crossing scene is rapidly coming together now, travelling back in time the photo below shows the scene in September 2013.

......and again in the previous May during the early planning stages.


So with this latest update complete its time to sit down with with a couple of books and read how that master of scenic modelling Barry Norman goes about creating different types of vegetables, soil and all those other things needed for an allotment.


Llangunllo Goods Crossing............

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I've been suffering from a winter chill for the past week or two so rather than spend my time upstairs modelling I've been content to sit in my favourite chair in front of the fire with a glass of Scotland's finest within easy reach, believe me its far more effective than any over the counter cure, such a shame that its not available on prescription.  Anyway as you will know from my previous post I was undecided as to whether I should model another level crossing at the end of the station platform or a simple occupation crossing.  So out came a selection of old railway magazines both modelling and prototype, along with some albums in hope of finding a little inspiration.

First of all I considered a simple occupation crossing which might have looked something like this albeit with additional gatepost at either end.  The gate, which once protected the rail entry to Penhydd creamery would have swung outwards towards the grass bank on the right.  Only one would have been needed on the far side of the track because the goods yard is private property and there is no right of way through it.  With it being a Friday the workers have clocked off early and gone for their first pint of the weekend leaving the post holes unprotected,
However the MSE gates are rather nice and it would have been a shame not to use them so I decided to stick to my original plan and here we have the second pair temporally installed.  Holes for the post were excavated and filled in the same manner as the first set of gates beside the signal box.  Naturally the the line side fencing will be reworked so that it reaches each gatepost.

Now for two views of the goods yard looking east and west, the gates and their post have now been removed whilst the DAS clay sets and then the yard surface will be restored around the gatepost and the signal post.  Weeds, rough grass and some notices will then be added before the completed gates are reinstated and yet another job can be ticked off the list.


By the time the fourth gate had been completed I was getting into the swing of things and enjoying myself but must admit that I will be glad to see the job completed as I want to crack on with something else.  Fortunately should our weather girls predictions come true then we are set for some milder weather next week so with a little luck the gates might get sprayed, the netting attached and both sets of gates put in place on the layout.

This, that and the other

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Modelling activities have been a bit hit and miss of late but now I've recovered from a few health issues, none of which are serious I hasten to add, I'm firing on all cylinders.  As usual my workbench has been sagging under the strain of various projects, the most important job was to spray both sets of crossing gates whilst we enjoyed a brief spell of warm weather, if you blinked you probably missed it!  I've never had the luxury of an airbrush so I just gave them a few passes of white acrylic primer from an aerosol can, left them to harden and turned my attention to adding some slates to the half timbered cottage roof.

Freshly sprayed in white primer and in pristine condition the gates will need to be distressed and heavily weathered to capture the neglected look of the fifties railway scene. To the right is a piece of fine protective netting as provided in the MSE kit.

For a good few years I've been happy to use the Wills roof slates which don't look too bad once all the visible edges have been thinned down but for the cottage I decided to try these from York Modelmaking who are now producing some really interesting and useful modelling components, I was also impressed with their mail order service which is second to none.  The slates are nicely coloured and textured and once you get the knack of applying them they are a joy to use.  I also decided to try some ornate ridge tiles to set the building off which proved a little more difficult to use and are perhaps a tad too flimsy if not reinforced with a light application of PVA along the folds.

My first attempt at using the York Modelmaking slates and ridge tiles, as you can see I started off fine and then somehow lost my way, so I ended up having to remove the ridge tiles and a few rows of slates before trying again.  The actual slates were built up on 10 thou styrene bases which when complete were trimmed to shape and then glued to the main roof. 
.

Over the next couple of weeks I plan to complete the scenery around the Llanbister Road end of the layout, so with plenty of trees and hedgerows needed I had to stock up on some scenic materials.  I was rather surprised to find that my preferred make of foliage was in short supply and furthermore a minimum order had to be placed if dealing direct with the manufacturer, so I looked around the web for an alternative supplier and decided to try Model Scenery Supplies.  I placed my order on Sunday evening and a short time afterwards I received an email from Paul to say my order had been prepared for dispatch, it arrived early on Tuesday morning, now beat that!  It goes without saying that I have no connection with either of the two company's mentioned other than being an extremely satisfied customer and I reckon they deserve a mention.

My scenery making kit already to go, the Sea Foam will be mainly used for some small saplings along the river bank and for creating some rough unkempt hedgerows.  The chunk of rubberised horsehair will also be used for hedgerows and for making the foundation for some foliage mats for the trees.  Lichen suitably dressed with foliage will be used for bushes, the latter being held in place with display mount.  When applying fine ground cover I use a simple tea strainer and though I have an electric fly swatter for applying static grass I prefer a simple puffer bottle which allows a more precise applications of fibres to be made.  By using a mix of materials its easy to get a good variation in texture and colour which I find goes a long way towards creating a convincing scene.

The scenic materials will be used to create some new trees and hedgerows around the Llanbister Road end of the layout and also to improve some earlier examples elsewhere.  I've also made a start on preparing the ground for the allotments and the first set of level crossing gates.

Here we have the first set of crossing gates, when the photo was taken the post nearest the signal box steps was not properly in place as I was waiting for the main gatepost to set.  Care has to be taken when installing these gates and were I doing the job again I would install them during the track laying stages.  Everything has been distressed and weathered so the gates blend into the scene, if they were pure white they would stick out like a sore thumb.  The metal fittings such as braces and hinges were painted in Precision dirty black and then dry brushed with a little Humbrol dark earth, a wash of dirty black was also run over the gates and their post along with a few dribbles of rust around the hinge and pivot areas.  Whilst the paint was still tacky everything was dusted down with talc, to blend everything together and provide a little texture, a little touching up is required here and there to complete the job.  I'm reliably told that the oil lamps had both a red body and lamp on the (G) WR, other regions notably the Eastern used a white body with a red lens if my information is correct.  An area has been cleared on the right for the allotment plots, I shall be using a few ideas from Barry Normans 'Modelling the Landscape' book and from MRJ No.5 in which Chris Pilton shows how he modelled his allotments and the various vegetables in it. 

Another view of the crossing with the gates open to road traffic, it was normal practice for them to be closed thus preventing access to the railway.  In the background a few tree armatures are taking shape, these are plastic mouldings from C & L Finescale and are being built up in a random fashion rather than to the instructions.  Once complete they will be coated with my own bark mix made up from Plaster and neat PVA.  Whilst taking these photos I tried out various positions for the trees so they blocked the mousehole and yet didn't cast shadows across the backscene which is easier said than done.
Unkempt hedgerows will border the lane and allotments, a few grotty tool huts and potting sheds will complete the scene.  An overgrown cart track winds its way down towards the disused quarry on the right, it will probably terminate in front of a five bar gate with a rusting corrugated iron hut, a relic of the old quarry workings keeping it company. 

Looking up towards the crossing and allotment site from the quarry track, if all goes to plan the tree will mask the mousehole nicely and yet not overpower the scene.

Since these photos have been taken the first crossing has been completed and the first hedgerows and foliage mats are drying out.  Tomorrow should see the tree armatures completed and the scene above should slowly come to life as the greenery takes hold, well I can live in hope can't I ?

Allotment Challenge

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During the days of the steam operated country branch it was not unusual to come across a station garden, competitions were run to find the best kept example and awards presented to the winning stations.  Some had floral displays, others vegetables or a combination of both depending on the interest of the railway staff who tended them.  The original plans for Llangunnlo included an allotment opposite the signal box but as the layout progressed I got other ideas such as the ill fated lodge house, I don't regret such diversions as you never know how things will work out but in the end I came full circle having decided that modelling some allotments wouldn't be such a bad idea after all.

The first job involved cutting back the rough grass on the embankment, one of the advantages of using Silflor matting is that its simple to remove and if care is taken it can be used again.  In fact most of the rough grass used on Llangunllo was recycled from Penhydd.
The Silflor has been stripped back revealing the original hanging basket liner.  Pieces of card were then put roughly in place to work out the arrangement of the individual allotment plots.

Allotments come in all shapes and sizes, some are extremely well kept with neat potting and tool sheds, whilst others are overgrown with tatty sheds cobbled together from all sorts of scrap materials.  One of my friends has an allotment as does my brother-in-law so I took myself down to have a look around.  According to my friends wife the only thing that grows down there is the tea bag mountain whilst he and his fellow gardeners put the world to rights.  I'm also told that he stands amongst the runner beans and leeks rather than doing a Marie Lloyd who had a music hall hit titled, 'She sits amongst the cabbages and peas'.  Anyway rather than lower the tone of the blog further I'll move on, the main purpose of my visit was to checkout the size of the various plots and the ramshackle tool and potting sheds, nothing beats a field visit to capture the feel of things.  I wasn't really interested in what little was growing as having a vegetable and fruit garden of our own I am pretty clued up as to how things are planted and set out.

The same view taken from a slightly different angle showing the allotment plots taking shape.  An area of rough grass borders the plots and railway line which will be protected by some lineside fencing.  All being well the scenic exit in the backscene will soon be disguised as a couple of trees take root towards the end of this week.

Each vegetable plot was made up from a stiff Plaster / PVA mix which was stippled with an old brush just before it set to represent turned over soil and a few lines of furrows.  The rough grass and compost dump is a mix of Silflor and static grass tufts with a few scraps of lichen thrown in for good measure.  A row of typical allotment huts will sit on the grassed area near the hedge, some cane supports for runner beans will appear on one of the plots and eventually the fencing will continue along the railway line until it reaches the goods yard.  I spent a fair bit of time working up the cart track surface which is made from the remains of the same plaster mix as used on the plots.  Some areas are smooth but others are rough where water run off has washed away the surface as it runs down the cart track towards the disused quarry.
Various hedges have now been planted into a bed of neat PVA and tufts of rough grass have been applied around their roots.  The allotments are surrounded by some rough grass and a pair of gatepost now mark the entry to the site.  Once the rest of the hedges and any bushes have been planted the rough grass areas will have another application of static grass fibres.

To create the hedgerows different sizes and shapes of rubberised horsehair were cut from the block on the left then held in tweezers and sprayed with display mount before being plunged into the bowl of mixed foliage.  To add variety each mix is made up in different proportions of material which in this case comprises of coarse burnt green, fine mid green and a sprinkling of autumn leaves, the horsehair can also be sprayed in browns, greys or left in its natural state to suit the type of hedge being modelled, the time of year and the effect of light falling upon it.

Looking in the other direction showing the lane as winds around to the level crossing.  Where I live  the hedgerows grow rather high making it impossible to see over their tops when walking along the country lanes, they are also full of brambles bearing fruit in season and that is something I'm looking into modelling eventually.  To give the effect of distance hedgerows in the background aren't as tall and are covered in a slighter lighter shade of foliage.

An aerial view of the same scene, the hardboard country lane and cart track have been textured with a stippled plaster / PVA mix then lightly sanded before given a dusting of talc.applied through a tea strainer, brush loads of Johnsons 'Kleer' were held against the talc and drawn into it by capillary action.  The surfaces are painted with artist acrylic using nothing more than light washes made up from white, black, burnt sienna and umber.  A start has been made on erecting some lineside fencing, this is the Ratio product but refined by filing the triangular section of the moulded bars flat.  It doesn't take long to do and makes a world of difference to the appearance of the fence, it also makes them more flexible allowing the ground contours to be followed more easily.  I can't say that I'm looking forward to modelling the various vegetables as its going to be very time consuming exercise, I could of course purchase some of those expensive laser cut examples by Noch and other continental manufacturers but I don't see the point in paying those sort of prices for something I can make myself.
Having crossed the River Lugg 1455 rumbles over the crossing before entering Llangunllo with a late afternoon passenger train.  It was my intention to plant a tree in the area between the bridge and telegraph pole but it spoils the view of the river so its back to the drawing board with that one

I'm now in the process of making some trees then a few patches of Rosebay Willowherb will start to grow on the embankments along with other weeds and wild flowers.  The project is now fast approaching its second birthday and whilst I am in no rush to complete things I do wonder just how far advanced the layout will be by the 25th of March.
   





Goodbye to The Chronicles.........

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Due to dwindling page views and yet another attack by the spammers I have decided to close 'The Chronicles of Penhydd' down.  All the post, photos and your valued comments have been saved and some of the popular constructional ones on the subject of track, etched chassis, modified RTR and buildings will eventually appear here under the 'Penhydd Archive' title should I set everything up correctly. Naturally this isn't going to happen overnight but with luck a few of the last Chronicles posts relating to my plans for Llangunllo will appear soon.

Geoff

Experimental Trees and Scenes....

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Over the past couple of weeks I've been experimenting with different methods of tree construction.  I've avoided large trees because they would have dominated what is a rather small layout so I've concentrated on smaller, simpler ones which I feel blend more easily into scene and help maintain the layouts spacious feel.

Large specimens like this built from C & L Finescale plastic armatures and Seamoss were out of the question but the idea based on an article which appeared in the 'Railway Modeller' by Paul Marshall- Potter worked well.  This view of the goods yard on the original version of Penhydd was always amongst my favourites.



I'm not really convinced with Seamoss when its used on its own but when grouped together to produce a copse it can work very well.  As an experiment I played around with a few C & L plastic stumps and branches which were lying around in my scrap box, the parts were trimmed back and drilled so that pieces of Seamoss could be glued in place in an attempt to produce some small to medium sized trees.
Once the armatures and Seamoss branches had been painted and left to dry C & L foliage was applied using spray mount as an adhesive.  The idea was to create the sort of tree that you hardly give a second glance to when you are out and about and yet crop up everywhere.  Trees to me are open and you can see daylight through the foliage unless they are packed closely together so I was at pains to create a light, see through look.  The trunks are not important for these examples are simply for trial purposes and will be hidden from view by the river bank as we will see later.  Should they look at home on the layout then they can easily be refined and pressed into use.

Here we have the right hand tree from the selection above, its been placed to block the arch of the scenic exit in the backscene and from this angle I think it works well.  Rather than having a dense canopy its open and you can see daylight through it.  The tree is in a rather exposed position and some of its branches have been bent due to the gale force winds which sweep across the valley, well that's my excuse but its not uncommon to come across such examples which are bent almost double in areas that are exposed to severe weather.

A second tree sits between and slightly behind the two buildings on the riverbank, in truth it needs to be just a little taller but I'm wary of it casting a shadow onto the backscene, a little more experimentation is called for here so I can judge exactly what I can get away with.  On the whole I'm rather pleased with the basic composition of this scene, especially the view of the post van as it heads towards the level crossing.  I'm now more convinced than ever that an old grey Fergie tractor would look lovely parked on the cobbles with perhaps someone tinkering with it. 
An unusual view of the river and its bridges which also shows the see through tree foliage to good effect.  I expect to plant another tree on the far river bank but the near one will just feature some bushes and gorse

Finally I couldn't resist a black and white photo of a single car DMU approaching Llangunllo, steam now but a memory and the lines future is hanging in balance.

Its about time the old Fordson post office mail van was replaced with a 'Moggy Minor'  I reckon the handbrake cable must have snapped as it started to roll backwards as I pressed the shutter!



From The Penhydd Archive....The story of 1455

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This is the first of the edited and updated 'Chronicles of Penhydd' posts to be transferred here, it covers the conversion and upgrade of my old Airfix 14XX tank engine into something a little different.  I wanted to model an example of the class without top feed and during my research I came across some photos of 1455 in such condition at Kington, New Radnor and at Titley Junction.  I also came across the Rail UK website where I learned that she was built at Swindon in 1935 and from 1948 her home shed was 85C Hereford.  She was later moved to 85B Gloucester and gained a top feed, withdrawn from the same shed on the 31/05/1964 she returned home to Swindon being scrapped two months later.  She also hauled the last passenger train over the Kington Branch which had been organised by the Stephenson Locomotive Society ( SLS ) .  A photo showing the special at Kington accompanied my article in the Railway Modeller August 2013 issue...........

The caption for the above photo reads...  " No.1455 taking water at Kington whilst working the SLS Leominster - Kington Centenary tour on Saturday 27th July 1957.  The train comprised auto trailers W243W and W242W ". 
 Photo by Hugh Ballantyne www.railphotoprints.co.uk

I used a Comet chassis and the Mainly Trains detailing kit to convert my model, sadly the latter is no longer available but alternative components can be sourced from  247 Developments , Craftsman Models. and others.  Recently a new RTR model of the 14XX tank has been announced but when or if it will appear remains to seen ?  In the meantime if you prefer to do a little hands on modelling rather than just open a box and have an old model tucked away read on............

Just before the axe fell on Penhydd 1455 was seen leaving for Titley Junction with a late evening passenger train conveying full milk tanks bound for Leominster and points East. The old baseboard frames, the signal and rolling stock all found a new home on Llangunllo where 1455 continues to give a good account of herself today.
If you are looking for a good book which explains everything you could possibly want to know about building and maintaining model loco chassis then look no further, for the one above by Iain Rice is the definite work on the subject.  Though its currently out of print used copies can often be found on the net and from specialist booksellers.  I use both 15w and 25w Antex soldering irons, 145 degree solder and 12% Phosphoric acid flux to assemble etched kits, other tools include a selection of files, cutting and smoothing broaches, a fibreglass brush and a 1/8th parallel reamer.  A set of Comets frame assembly jigs are a must if, like me you don't have a fancy chassis assembly jig.

This is the Comet chassis fret, brass wire, top hat bearings and trailing axle box castings make up the rest of the kit.  If you want something more detailed and fancy modelling the inside motion then the High Level chassis kit will be just the thing for you.

I started off by cleaning the complete chassis etch and then opened up the holes for the brake hanger wires with a broach until the wire provided was a firm fit within them.  Though I was using the sub chassis (item 4 on the etch) I still opened up the bearing holes so that the top hat bearings would fit, the reason for doing this will become clear once the frame assembly jigs are used.  I removed each frame from the fret by cutting through their tabs with a Stanley Knife, filing any remains flat.  Referring to Comets instructions three spacers were prepared and soldered in place on one frame only.  Spacers for '00' are supplied as standard but will be exchanged free of charge if you model in EM or P4.  The trailing axle is held in place with wire retainers which locate in tabs, the latter were folded to shape and strengthened with a fillet of solder as can be seen on the lower frame in the photo above.

The next job involved assembling the frames and this is where the frame assembly jigs came into play.  The jigs comprise of three turnings one of which you can see between the frames in the photo, three lengths of threaded rod and six nuts are also included.  The top hat axle bearings are inserted into the frames and jig then the threaded rod is passed through them both, two nuts are threaded onto the rod and tightened up thus pushing the bearings into both the frame and jig.  The second jig is set up in exactly the same way leaving you with a pair of accurately aligned frames but do check that they are level and square before soldering them together, the jigs are available for '00', EM, and P4 and well worth their modest cost.  Once the frames have been assembled the jigs and bearings are removed.
Here we have the assembled frames, the rear chassis extension has been formed and its folds reinforced with solder. The latter has two slots etched into its rear face which are designed to locate in the end of the chassis frames, this is fine for '00' gauge but for EM or P4 a little measuring, cutting and filing is required due to the extra width of the chassis. The  Comet GB4 gearbox is in the course of being assembled, its top hat bearings have been inserted from the inside of the box so the sub chassis can clip over them, the front plate of the gearbox will be fitted later as will the motor which is a Mashima 1020.  The sub chassis has been folded up and bearings fitted for the front driving wheels.

The basic chassis with rear extension, motor, gearbox and sub chassis fitted in place.  Jig axles are supporting the sub chassis which pivots on the brake hanger wire between them. The same jig axles are used to check the accuracy of the coupling rods, in my experience Comets are always spot on but its always worth making sure.  The axles are supported and revolve in the sub chassis and gearbox bearings so none are fitted into the chassis frames, thus allowing the sub chassis to rise and fall by a small amount.
I glued the axlebox castings in place with epoxy after first sweating the etched hornblock detailing strips in place below them. I then filed a flat on the drive axle before fitting it and its drive gear temporarily in place, this serves two purposes as not only does it provide a firm securing point for the gears grubscrew but also stops the latter forcing the gear out of true as it is tightened up.  All moving surfaces were lightly lubricated with clock oil, power was applied and everything checked for smooth and quiet running.  Once happy the motor and gearbox together with the drive axle were removed, the chassis was cleaned up and prepared for painting.  I used an old pair of axles to protect the bearings from paint, masked the trailing axle and wheels and gave the whole chassis a couple of light coats of black primer from an aerosol can.  


Once the chassis had been sprayed I carried out a little weathering, adding touches of rust around the ash pan, guard irons and the trailing axlebox castings.  All the bearing surfaces were checked for any stray paint, their surfaces lubricated and the motor, gearbox and driving wheels refitted.  I've always used Gibson wheels and prepare them by rubbing their backs on some wet and dry paper to remove any moulding pips, the latter can catch on the pick up wires causing an annoying clicking sound.  The crankpin holes were countersunk to receive the pins before carefully screwing them home and securing them with a touch of screwlock.  Axles were prepared by filing a slight chamfer on their ends so they start to enter the wheel centres easily.  Years ago I invested in a GW Wheelpress which makes light work of mounting the wheels, ensuring that they go on their axles both true and accurately quartered.  With the chassis wheeled up the guard irons were gently bent to shape and touched up with paint as required.
Each axle will require a certain amount of side play, just how much depends on the radius of the curves that you expect your chassis to negotiate. The drive axle needs just a running clearance whereas the others will need more, the curves on Penhydd were around 6ft radius and those on Llangunllo slightly larger so 1455 needed only 1 mm of side play on the leading and trailing axles.  Rather than take measurements I cheat by mounting some old wheels and axles in the chassis, adding or removing spacing washers until I get things just right.  The pick up pads will be bolted to the frame spacer just forward of the trailing axle and beneath the sub chassis, notice the flat which has been filed on the drive axle for the gear retaining screw.
Each coupling rod was made next by sweating its two sections together, both were cleaned and one was tinned, more flux was applied, then they were held in alignment with a couple of sharpened cocktail sticks.  A hot iron was then wiped along the rods working from their centres outwards and around the edges, they were then cleaned up, filed to shape and the holes gently opened up, first with a cutting broach and then with a smoothing broach until they fitted nicely over the crank pin bushes.  The second coupling rod was made up in the same way then both were fitted to the wheels and the chassis pushed along to check for any binding.

The brake gear has now been fitted as close to the wheels as possible, the pick ups have also been fitted and the motor wired.  The chassis is now ready for testing and running in, all being well the motor shaft will be cut down afterwards with a triangular diamond coated file.  Whatever you do don't use a slitting disc as the heat generated will damage the motor.  Pick up pads were made from gapped copperclad strip and bolt onto the frame spacer and sub chassis as previously described, lengths of 0.33 brass wire were then soldered.to the pads  The wires were cut to length and the ends bent into a 'Z' shape to bear lightly on the back of each driving wheel, taking great care to avoid the spring and brake detail thus preventing any short circuits.  The pick ups for the trailing wheels are straight and bear lightly on the wheel flanges to reduce drag.
Very rarely will a chassis run well from the word go, more often than not a few adjustments will be needed. If you have used a wheelpress which accurately quarters the wheels then any problems will be down to the gears or coupling rods, the latter might need easing a touch or a crank pin might not be true.  If the gearbox and motor mounting are true then it might be a simple case of adjusting the position of the gear on the drive axle.  Pick ups can also cause problems if they are too stiff or incorrectly adjusted.  To begin with its a case of trial and error but as your experience grows fault finding and adjustment become easier.


So much for the chassis lets take a look at the body......................

The old Airfix body breaks down into several parts and I assume the later Dapol and Hornby models do the same.  I started off by removing the smokebox door by gently filing it away a little at a time, taking care to keep the file square to the job.  The chimney was cut off and the surface made good by using a combination of craft knife, nail boards and wet and dry papers.  One advantage of fitting a replacement chassis is that the boiler can be modelled in full by fitting a plug underneath it,  I made mine by wrapping an oversized piece of 20 thou styrene sheet around some brass tubing of slightly less diameter than the boiler and then plunging it into some boiling water.  Once it had cooled down the styrene was removed from the tubing, trimmed to size and cemented in place, you can see the plug in the bottom left corner of the photo, along with a new brass chimney of the correct profile and a new door casting of the correct size.

I next removed the cab roof and using a new curved craft knife blade carefully carved away all the moulded handrails and lamp irons  The toolboxes on 1455 were fitted further forward than those on the Airfix model so they were removed and styrene replacements made.  The top feed was cut off the boiler and the surface made good in the same manner as the chimney, a new boiler band was made from microstrip and once set hard it was trimmed and sanded to shape to match the others. 
This cruel enlargement shows the boiler plug and replacement boiler band, the latter has yet to be sanded down hence its less than perfect appearance.  At this stage of the conversion everything is looking a right mess especially around the splasher but it will all come good in the end.
Its all starting to come together now, all the hand and grab rails have been carved away and wire replacements fitted, Gibson handrail knobs being used to mount them.  Replacement and additional lamp irons are from brass strip, the buffer beam overlays, water tank fillers, vents and wheel balance weights were all salvaged from a part built Perseverance 14XX kit that I purchased cheaply for spares off Ebay.  The sandboxes also came from the same source, though with care, it is possible to salvage the old ones from the original Airfix chassis, or if you prefer new castings can be purchased from the dealers mentioned in the post introduction.

1455 was auto fitted so part of the control linkage was fitted under the front buffer beam and behind the screw link coupling and new pipework.  Other improvements and additions include a new safety valve casting, some turned whistles and an etched whistle shield.  The front cab windows are a little on the small side, so I thinned the heavy roof down which made them a touch taller and I also ran a file along their edges to make them wider.  Work was still in progress when this photo was taken hence the ill fitting roof and cab handrail.

One advantage of using an etched chassis is that you can detail the cab interior,  I removed the load of moulded coal and replaced it with a piece of styrene onto which some real crushed coal was glued.  The hooks on the rear of the bunker were made by forming some brass strip around a suitably sized drill shank, lamp irons were also made from the same material.  Rather than buy a casting for the battery box I made one from styrene sheet which was a simple enough job.

1455 is looking less like the old Airfix model now, I spent a little time cleaning up the pipework which runs along the model by gently scraping a knife blade along its edges.  Then out came the aerosol can and the body was sprayed in matt black primer, checking for and correcting any blemishes once dry.  As usual I made my own number plates from the excellent Martin Finney etches, though Martin is retiring the number plate kit, Ref E1 is still listed as being available.  Finally a new wire grab rail between the cab roof and left hand bunker side was added. 

With number plates in place a yellow route marker, a BR emblem, smokebox number and shed plate from the Modelmaster range were applied and given a coat of matt varnish.  Next I picked out various areas of the model in rust coloured shades of enamel, rather than purchase the so called 'rust' paint which looks anything but to me I mix up my own shades, using light and dark earth with a little dirty black.  Once the rust patches had dried I applied light washes of dirty black over them and the entire model followed by a dusting of talc to blend everything together.  1455 was a little light on her feet when initially tested but once some weight had been added to the inside of the tanks and boiler she was more than capable of lifting a rake of four six wheeled milk tanks up the slight gradient leading out of Penhydd Creamery.  She can just manage the same load and two passenger coaches on the level which is more than adequate for my modest needs.

Its over three years since 1455 was completed and today she performs the same duties as she did on Penhydd.  In this view she is busy shunting milk tanks at Llangunllo and to this day remains my favourite model locomotive.

Llangunllo Signal Box and Cottages

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This is yet another post which first saw light of day on 'The Chronicles of Penhydd' only to be continued here where I've done a little editing and updating as I've gone along.  I first became aware of St. Mary's crossing signal box when I came across a drawing that appeared in an early issue of the Railway Modeller, I can't tell you the exact one off the top of my head but I think it would have been in the early seventies.  Around the same time Peco published some very interesting books by Eric Ilet which featured drawings of railway buildings and structures.  Now sadly out of print the book below which was No.5 in the series was first published in 1977 and includes drawings of St. Mary's crossing box.  Thirty six years later in January 2013 a start was finally made on modelling it and two years later on I actually finished it!



The following photographs show the real St.Mary's crossing as it is today, I never intended modelling the scenes they capture as I wanted to create my own version of the crossing, complete with the signal box as it appeared in the Ericplans book and my version of the cottages.  I had been looking for an excuse to model the signal box for many years and Llangunllo provided one, in fact the layout was built with the crossing in mind, everything else being planned around it.  The bridge in the background crosses the Thanes and Severn canal, there is a lock tucked somewhere down there not to mention the River Frome.  But in my little world its the River Lugg which meanders through the scene and under the bridges as it passes through Llangunllo and down the valley until it joins the River Wye, as for a canal, well one never reached these parts. The box itself is a GWR type two of 1875 and is still in use today, Tim Maddocks posted a lovely photo feature over on RMweb showing the crossing gates and no end of other interesting detail, there is also a rear view of the cottages. should anyone be tempted to model the real place they will find plenty of inspiration.


Photo by Nottsexminer   http://www.flickr.com/photos/nottsexminer/7810400604/

Photo by Nottsexminer  http://www.flickr.com/photos/nottsexminer/7810400604

I took a different approach when building Llangunllo, instead of starting with the baseboards I built all the track and then started to model the signal box and the adjacent cottages.  My reasons for doing things in that manner was so I could continue to operate Penhydd whilst working on the new layout, I was also able to judge if the crossing scene would work as I had pictured in my minds eye.  Originally I had intended to build the crossing scene in one section so it could simply be added to the new layout as a sort of jigsaw piece, other pieces for the station platform and dairy being built off the layout and added to it as I went along.  I thought such a method of construction would help avoid any back pain as I wouldn't be leaning over the layout for hours on end adding those important little details. However like many other ideas that enter my head for various reasons things didn't go exactly to plan. I started off by making a rough sketch of how the model would be built and the way in which each part would fit together, the idea was then tested out by making a card mock up.  Scratch building is simply a case of designing and building your own kit of parts and extremely satisfying. 
  
The basic shell was made from 30 thou styrene sheet overlaid with Slaters embossed stone courses.  Each wall was clad in turn taking care to align the courses, once set the edges were trimmed and the courses carved at the joints to blend them together.  The floor is Slaters embossed sheet but in this case 2 mm planking, plinths have been modelled full depth to enable the building to sit into the ground as shown in the drawing.

In the top photo the fireplace and hearth are beginning to take shape, they are nothing more than scraps of styrene left over from other parts of the build, detail such as this is easy to model. The rear window is being modelled in the lower photo and with no etch of the correct size being available the frame has been made from microstrip.


I prefer using the Slaters embossed stone sheets because the relief isn't too deep so the buildings seem to blend in with the surrounding rather than jump out at you.  If you look at a real building whether it is of brick, stone or timber construction there is hardly any relief, try running your fingers along a real wall, if the surfaces were scaled down then they would appear almost smooth like brick and stone papers.  Its mainly the effect of light hitting a wall, picking out the different colours as it does so and casting shadows which makes them look rough and uneven.  Mind you there are exceptions such as in the case of drystone walls and their like.


Windows can be a right pain, pun unintended, the rear one and those in the locking room and door were made from microstrip and took an age.  Elsewhere I was able to use a suitable etch which made things far easier and quicker, I don't usually like mixing materials but in this case it worked out fine.
The upper panels are from 30 thou styrene sheet, overlaid in 2mm planking and Evergreen strip.  The cabinet by the side of the locking room door as shown in the drawing is yet to be added.
The landing is ready for the stairs to be attached but I left them off until the end of the build fearing that they would only be damaged if fitted at this stage.  These days a couple of fold up etches are available but to me they look a little flat, I was going make my own stairs from Evergreen strip then I discovered that the plastic parts from the Ratio GWR signal box were available as a separate item so I used those suitably modified instead.  Since then York Modellingmaking have introduced a laser cut kit of parts which look very nice indeed.

I dread making roofs and fitting gutters as it is so easy to get things wrong and spoil your model.
The shape of this particular roof needed careful plotting to capture the correct angles and pitch, as usual scrap card was used to work everything out and to act as templates before cutting any styrene.
To help add strength to the model I made a false roof comprising of an inner and outer section, the inner section fits between the four walls of the box thus forming the ceiling and also keeps the walls square.  The main roof overlaps the walls and forms a convenient location for the gutters and a firm foundation for the slated part of the roof.  Gutters were formed by cementing strips of 30 thou styrene sheet around the edges of the main roof and then shaping them into a half round section.

 The gutter section on the left has already been shaped by gentle scraping it along its length with the back of a craft knife blade and nail boards.  The strips on the right hand side are still to be shaped, final finishing being carried out by using wet and dry paper to create a smooth uniform appearance.  

Here you can see the open section of the gutter which was made by first scribing a guide line all around the roof.  Next a triangular file was used to create a vee section with the final profile being formed with a round file.  A gentle scraping action taking a little material away at a time is all that is needed, once again the job was finished off by using wet and dry paper.  It sounds more difficult and time consuming than it actually is but its both easy and quick to do.  The first supports for the  roof surface have been fitted with another four yet to be added between the centre to each corner.
Once all the gutters had been shaped, brackets made from Microstrip were attached.  The advantages of making gutters in this manner are many.  Not only are they very strong but for this design of building where they continue all round the roof it makes for very neat corner joints

I decided to use Wills slates for the roof but thinned them down and chamfered the edges to give a much finer appearance.  The upper panel is not yet secured in place and was left loose until the box had been fitted out and the windows installed, the tops of the plinths also await fitting..

The nearest window frames I could find to suit the box were these from Brassmasters.  I'm a huge fan of this range because they are very cleanly etched and ridiculously cheap, the mail order service isn't bad either.
Though the window frames are the correct style they are 0.5 mm wider than they need to be.  It might not sound much but it all adds up resulting in the end window openings only being wide enough for three x two panes rather than the four x two of the prototype.  I could have commissioned an etch or made the window opening a little wider but my model wasn't meant to be an exact replica of the real box so I was happy to use what the trade could supply off the shelf.  Personally I am happy with the way the build has worked out and don't feel the reduction in the number of window panes affects the appearance of the building.


The etches had to be trimmed down to fit the window openings, the smaller window represents the inner sliding frame.  They were easy enough to trim to size, a few passes with a new blade fitted into my Stanley Knife soon removed the waste material, mind you I did use several blades!  The final finish and fit was achieved with a selection of needle files and wet and dry papers. 


The front windows presented no problems as it was easy to adjust the width of the central and outer front panel pillars.  The cubicle on the side of the box was made up from 30 thou styrene with a roof of 15 thou. Hinges are from microrod and strip, it sits high because the box will be sunk into the ground and then it's base will be flush with the ground surface.  A study of the drawings posted earlier clearly show how the land falls away to the rear of the building.



The interior walls now have stone and planked overlays, skirting boards and window sills.  The exterior stonework was painted by applying Railmatch acrylic concrete paint over its entire surface. Most of it was then removed with cotton buds leaving the colour in the mortar courses and on a few randomly selected stones. Precision Weathered Wood enamel was then dry brushed at an angle across the stones in both upward and downward strokes.  Humbrol Light and Dark Earth was then dry brushed across the surfaces in the same manner, once again the cotton buds came into play and paint was removed at random, finally out came the old talc and the model was given a dusting all over whilst the paint was still tacky.  Our local chemist no longer gives me strange looks now she knows what I use nail boards, cotton buds and baby powder for !

This is how the scene might have looked had it been possible to model the low stone wall which skirts the road as seen in the prototype photographs.  No matter what I tried the scene was either overcrowded or I encountered difficulties in merging the road over the bridge and into the backscene.  I also needed extra space for the river bank so after a little trial and error I eventually came up with the arrangement that you see today. 

The cottages like the signal box are not meant to be exact replicas, the real thing being used as a source of inspiration.  They are made from a 60 thou styrene shell which was overlaid with Slaters embossed stone topped off with a roof of Wills slate.  Chimney pots, rainwater goods, the ornate window frames and the wall ties are also made by Wills.  Whilst I searched for some suitable etched windows I fitted some Downesglaze examples which had been lying around for more years than I care to remember, they helped to give me a feel for the building as construction continued.  The lime wash render finish was achieved by painting neat white artist acrylic over the embossed stone, stippling it with a stiff brush to create different textures.  In places the blade of a craft knife was used to peel areas of the paint away revealing the stonework beneath it.  Paint was also lifted away by using cotton buds and wet and dry papers.  Finally everything was toned down with washes of dirty grey to give a weather beaten effect, then a mix of sap green and burnt sienna was dry brushed around the downpipes, dry course and under the gutters and window sills, a dusting of talc and that was that.  I hadn't a clue how things would work out or what I was doing at the time because my ideas were experimental, sometimes you win and at others you don't but I like to think I got away with it on this occasion. 

Now with some slightly modified Ratio signal box steps temporarily fitted the buildings stayed like this whilst I continued to work on other parts of the layout.
Finally at the turn of the New Year I picked both models up once again, determined to finish them both by the end of January 2015



The camera can be ever so cruel and the interior looks far neater than it appears in the photo, well I would say that wouldn't I ?  The first job involved glazing the windows and once again I used some Laserglaze offcuts which are held in place with superglue, now I happen to believe that the person who wrote the instructions for this stuff got it wrong because in my experience it sticks better to greasy finger tips and surfaces than it does clean, prepared ones, I also managed to glue my 6" scale rule to my shirt sleeve and then my sleeve to my cutting board, is it just me or what ?  The various interior fittings have been salvaged from the old Penhydd box but the lever frame needed shortening, if the levers are in the wrong order I apologise but the truth is only their tops can be seen once the roof is in place which begs the question why bother fitting out the interior in the first place as I have no intention of installing any means of lighting?  On the high desk in the bottom left hand corner the train register awaits its next entry and a comfy looking armchair can be seen positioned against the fireplace, the floor is a piece of Slaters planking painted chocolate over sand, a stiff brush drawn lengthways helped produce a grain effect.  Before you ask, yes the chimney stack has been trued up, damn the camera!

The block instruments are suspended on a shelf hanging from the ceiling and once the roof is properly secured it will hopefully be level.  The lever frame has been sunk into the floor and also needs levelling before the front panel is glued in place.
I was much happier once the glazing and interior had been completed as I hate such jobs, in fact I would go as far as to say that I hate building signal boxes and perhaps that is the reason why this one has taken so long.  But with all the fiddly bits out of the way I could at last fit the front panel and roof and I began to enjoy myself as the building came to life.  The top half of the box was now ready to be painted in the faded WR colours of chocolate and cream.  I stopped purchasing the so called railway colours years ago as I much prefer to mix my own shades up from a small basic selection of enamels. Once dry everything was given a wash of dirty black mixed with a little grey, a few areas being dry brushed with the same mix before a dusting of talc was applied to flatten the finish and blend everything together, I then set the box aside whilst I prepared the ground to receive it.

The first stage of the weathering process, having tried to apply the paint as neatly as possible the next job was to tidy things up and cut some of the muck back with sharpened cocktail sticks, cotton buds and a touch of thinners.  I certainly didn't want a pristine finish because the box is in an exposed location and well off the beaten track, the layout is also set in the pre Beeching era when repaints weren't carried out unless closure was on the horizon :-)  Downpipes are from Micro- rod bent to shape under the hot water tap with wall clamps made from soft iron wire twisted around them to produce a typical twin ring design.  As mentioned in previous posts the steps are Ratio, however the railings around the landing are made from Evergreen strip.  Ridge tiles are from Micro-strip and 5 thou styrene.
The cottage boundary fence now extends around the signal box, a gate protects the drive entrance.
Weeds and tufts of grass made from static grass have taken root in the ash surface which surrounds the box and a hedgerow has sprung up beside the road bridge over the River Lugg.
Looking in the same direction as the previous photo but from ground level.

A view looking in the opposite direction, a 'Beware of the Trains' notice has been prepared ready to take its place at the edge of the fencing.





Two years and three days later the level crossing scene is almost complete and so is Llangunllo.

Lazy River..........

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Over the past few weeks I've been busy working on the river scene, a variety of trees, shrubs and bushes have been made from seamoss, horsehair, lichen and even some decent looking twigs. Various textures and colours of foliage were applied to them and then everything was loosely planted in place.  Rather than make things up as I've gone along I've been out and about out looking at the sort of scene that I wished to model, many photos being taken for reference and a few rough sketches made for good measure.  I also spent a fair amount of time taking photos of the model from all manner of different angles as I composed the scene, moving things around in the process until I was happy with the composition, only then did I secure everything in place. 

The real River Lugg rises high on Beacon Fell which would be roughly behind the tallest tree which blocks the view of the scenic exit.  At this point the river is both narrow and shallow but its level can change quickly during periods of high rainfall when trees, branches and even the odd fence post have been known to be swept away downstream.  Due to the river passing through agricultural land, run off from the surrounding fields gives the water a muddy brown colour which I have tried to capture on the model.  As a bonus, under certain lighting conditions and with the feed store removed I've been pleased to see reflections of the rail bridge deck and a couple of trees on the surface of the river, 

Whilst far from perfect I think I've managed to block the view of the scenic exit from all angles, you certainly can't see it from the operating position and its only from helicopter views that it becomes more noticeable.  The tree which masks the lane as it crosses the river and merges into the back scene caused a few problems as regards shadows but with much trial and error I've been able to eliminate all but one, however an extra spot lamp changes will cure that.

The cottage is yet to receive its rainwater goods and bargeboards, the stone trough needs putting on some supports and then a stack pipe and tap will be fitted behind it against the wall.  The little Fergie tractor is the Oxford Diecast model, its being refined and hopefully improved with some extra detail.  Though there is detailed cast kit for this tractor I get a lot of satisfaction from taking cheap basic models and upgrading them. So far I've cut the one piece front axle in two and made a pair of stub axles as per the prototype, they've been glued in place to give a touch of lock which always looks better than wheels modelled in the straight ahead position  The steering wheel has been reduced in thickness and the paintwork has been toned down, I'm currently attempting to model the missing three point hitch and at the moment I'm on the Mk.2 version.

Llangunllo is not only a model railway but a 3D canvass on which I'm trying to model numerous sights and scenes from my past, in fact I would say doing the latter is now more important than running the trains, which just goes to show how my interests have changed as I've grown older.  I first came across a Ferguson tractor such as this one during one of the many holidays that we spent at my grandparents down in Somerset in the mid fifties.  By then we had moved north to Cheshire but returned each year to spend a fortnights holiday with them at their delightful stone cottage which was but two doors away from the local farm.  When we had said our goodbyes the previous summer farmer Lambert was still using a team of horses to work his land but when we returned a year later he was the proud owner of a little Fergie and several other implements to use with it including a Massey Ferguson hay baler, which must have been the most impressive piece of modern machinery that I had ever set my eyes on at that time, the mighty Combine Harvester still being nothing more than a dream in those days.

Anyway getting back on track here are a couple of photos of trains, its rather pleasing to catch a glimpse of the trains as they pass between the trees, behind the buildings and over the bridge.


4560 was captured a couple of weeks ago when she made a rare appearance on the pick up goods, judging by the short train there wasn't much to pick up but that was very much the case in 1964 on the Presteign branch, when the now preserved 1420 would make the trip up to the terminus with a similar train which by that time was being 'run as required'.


Finally on a typical dull Welsh morning 1455 was caught shunting a rake of empty milk tanks down to the dairy. 


Fencing and other distractions..........

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In between other projects I've been slowly working my way back down the branch towards the station adding fencing and working up the scenery as I've gone along.

This view of the riverbank is only possible when the feed store is removed so I've used some Ratio fence post but no wire.  I suppose you could accuse me of cheating and taking the easy option but if you were actually standing on the near bank would you be able to see the fence wires?  
Moving further along the line we come upon the site of the old cattle dock and loading bank, now you know why a five bar gate was installed just off the road.  The old corrugated hut is yet to be distressed and weathered so its not yet been bedded into the ground, the fencing along this stretch of line is by Ratio but not as it comes out of the pack as I've invested a little time in improving it as explained below.

 I first came across this method of improving the fencing whilst reading Barry Norman's excellent book on Landscape Modelling.  The photo above shows a length of the fencing in the course of being modified, the section on the left is untouched and is heavily flashed which isn't surprising given the age of the mould and the number of times that it must have been used.  The fencing bars are a rounded triangular section on one side and flat on the other, some fencing bars are like that so you might be happy to use it as intended but it still pays to clean the moulding up.  The right hand section has been modified to produce a flat bar by drawing a Stanley Knife blade along the surface of all four bars at once and then finishing the job off with nail file boards, removing any flash and moulding pips at the same time, its a messy time consuming job but I reckon its worth it.
By the time I had modified and installed two metres of the fencing I was getting sick of the sight of it but by breaking the job down into manageable sessions it was soon completed.  I drilled each main post and inserted short lengths of brass wire in them which were then glued into pre drilled holes in the scenery thus holding the fence firmly in place, each fence section being joined to its neighbour with solvent.  Each section of fencing was painted prior to installation in various mixes of silvery grey in hope of giving it a well weathered appearance, a wash of light earth and a little dry brushing using a mix of grey / green followed and then out came the talc to tone it all down.  As for the scenery, well more undergrowth has taken root around the quarry, the grass is slowly growing longer as more static fibres are added and some weeds are beginning to spread.


Finally a couple of photos taken over the weekend when a DMU passed through Llangunllo on an excursion.  Its the reworked Hornby version of the old Lima model, though its been converted to EM using society shouldered axles and the correct type of Gibson wheels it still awaits extra detail, corridor connections and should really have the continuous rain strips removed as the original units only had them above each door.  I must be lucky because this model is yet another quiet, smooth performer.


So that's it for another week or maybe two but before I sign off you might remember me reviewing these SW coupling mounts which are now available direct from '5522' Models.

Another look at the goods yard.......

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Since my last update there has been plenty of good news for the 4mm finescale modeller, first of all Brassmasters announced that they had bought Martin Finney's range of 4mm kits, castings and etches and then came the news that Chris Parrish was making the old Westward / Perseverance range available again :-)

Moving on, despite the lovely weather I've still managed to make a little progress on the layout, more weeds have been planted which made a pleasant change from pulling the damn things up in the garden and a few bushes have started to fill out.

The S & T department had been cutting back some vegetation around the crossing gates following complaints that they couldn't be locked securely in place, when 1455 caught them on the hop whilst returning early to Kington with the pick up goods empties.  No doubt it being a Friday afternoon and their last turn of the day the crew were annoyed to have the run home delayed.

With the gates closed to road traffic the peg came off and with a toot of her whistle 1455 accelerated away for civilisation.  Meanwhile Henry Stephens has been stocking up on coal whilst the price is low, no doubt he will make a tidy profit when winter comes around again or a sudden cold snap catches everyone out.



I've not finished with the static grasses yet, a few more tufts are still to be planted and then I will turn my attention to installing the remaining telegraph poles.

Though the crossing gates have been in place for several weeks I wanted to work the scenery up a little more in the goods yard before posting any photos.
On another note 2217 should return to service within the next week all being well and at long last I might actually be able to see the top of my workbench.

2217

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My first encounter with a Collett Goods engine in model form took place in George Mellors (GEM) factory / showroom at Rhos-on-Sea in North Wales in the early sixties.  By rights I should have been participating in my school sports day but having been volunteered for numerous field events by my sadistic Housemaster, I felt the day would be better spent on the platforms of Chester General.  At the time I was modelling in 3mm scale and with a couple of weeks paper round money burning a hole in my pocket I decided on impulse to jump on the next train for the Welsh coast and blow the lot on some model railway equipment and that is how I ended up purchasing a BEC cast kit for a 3mm scale Collett Goods engine together with a Tri-ang 0-6-0 chassis to suit.  A few years later I traded my 3mm collection in and returned to 4mm scale, high on my list of wants was a K's Dean Goods kit which I was advised to avoid by the owner of my local model shop who told me the K's chassis were the very devil to build.  So I took his advice and bought a Will's Collett Goods body kit which would fit onto a Tri-ang 0-6-0 chassis, the model was a huge success and gave good service, then Mainline introduced their version of the model just as I was dipping my toes into the world of EM gauge modelling.


3218 was based on the aforementioned Mainline model and is seen here at Penhydd on its Comet compensated chassis, the tender also ran on a compensated Comet chassis  The body was very poor indeed, like the Mainline Mogul and Manor it suffered from a ragged moulding line which ran all along the top of the model including the safety valve and chimney.  I removed both fittings and made good the resulting mess then cleaned up the moulding line before fitting a replacement safety valve casting and a turned chimney, the original being pure fiction rather than Swindon.  One advantage of fitting an etched chassis was that it allowed the cab to be fully detailed because the motor no longer protruded into it so I fitted a Gibson backhead.  I also added a turned smokebox dart along with a full complement of lamp irons and sandbox operating linkages which I made up from brass strip.  The  shallow front buffer beam was modified by adding a strip of 60 thou styrene along its lower edge which allowed some new sprung buffers to be fitted in the correct position unlike the originals which were mounted way too high, the usual pipework and a screwlink coupling completed the detailing on the engine.  Turning my attention to the tender I carved away the original axle boxes which were a little lacking in both depth and detail, replacements from Gibson made a huge difference as did the addition of some styrene gussets between the tender body and chassis along with some styrene cube rivets for the frame.  New grab and handrails were made up from wire and held in place with Gibson handrail knobs, final touches in the way of sprung buffers, lamp irons, pipework and a scale coupling completed the build and I ended up with what a I considered to be a decent 'layout engine'.


During 2009 I came across a pre owned Bachmann Blue Riband version of the model in my then local model shop.  The price asked was very reasonable indeed so I snapped 2217 up with a view to fitting it on the Comet chassis belonging to 3218.  However when I got home I found the running qualities of the new improved chassis were superb, in those days there was no six month wait for Ultrascale wheels and the prices were reasonable so I bought a full EM conversion set.  Fitting the new wheels was a simple job, the two body screws were removed followed by the one securing the keeper plate. The old wheels were dropped out and the new ones dropped in with only the slightest of brake block trimming required, pickups were gently eased outwards, the coupling rods transferred from old to new wheels, the model was reassembled and away she went. 


Penhydd again with 2217 on running trials after the Ultrascale EM wheel conversion.  Notice how the buffer shanks are level with the top of the buffer beam whereas they should in fact be level with its lower edge.  One of my friends Richard Ough told me about a discussion on a well known forum concerning the incorrect small sized Bachmann driving wheels, no wonder the buffers were mounted higher than they should be!  I was unaware of the wheel issue as I had used the correct size wheels from Gibson and Ultrascale on both my models, so I checked the Bachmann originals and found that they were indeed on the small side, even accounting for limits of wear.
Anyway having converted the model to EM it ended up in store whilst I modelled Penhydd Creamery and then started afresh with Llangunllo.  But the project wasn't forgotten as I drew up a list of modifications that I would make to suit my choice of prototype and here they are once again.



See what I mean about that ragged moulding line and chimney!

The first job was to remove the chimney and the over scale lamp irons, then out came the nail file boards and wet and dry paper to make the surfaces good, the safety valve cleaned up nicely so I left it in place.  Though the cab window handrails are made from wire they had been fitted flush against the cab side, so I gently eased them out and secured them with a drop of cyano.
Normally I renumber my RTR based models but in this case 2217 suited me fine because her home shed in 1955 was 89C Machynlleth, prior to that she was at 87G Carmarthen and then she found her way to the SDJR at 71H Templecombe, from where she was withdrawn on the 30/11/1964.  I found this information from my various Combined Volumes and the excellent Rail UK website. To complete my research I needed a photo of the prototype but a search through my extensive collection of books drew a blank, fortunately within the pages of the Colour Rail online catalogue I came across a good selection of photos featuring 2217.

This photo shows 2217 at Carmarthen on the 20/ 07/ 1962 and is reproduced here with the kind permission of Paul Chancellor of Colour Rail.  Notice the low mounted lamp iron on the smokebox door which was fitted as an electrification safety measure on the last remaining steam engines.  That is one detail that I will not be adding as my operating era for 2217 is much earlier  Another detail to note is the small balance weight on the centre driving wheel, on some members of the class they were huge.


Having in the past built a good number of etched kits I've got into the habit of saving the scrap frets, which come in very useful as a source of brass strip for detailing purposes, such as lamp irons and the sandbox operating linkages that you see here.  I also added the conduit (ATC ?) which runs beside the linkage and down inside the frames.  I carried out the same modifications as those on 3218 but this time I also replaced the smokebox door step as the original is on the small size.  If you look closely you can see the strip of 60 thou styrene that I've added below the lower edge of the buffer beam.  Fitting the buffers correctly and replacing the excuse of a chimney makes a huge difference to the face of the engine.  Vacuum pipes were formed from .9mm brass rod with 10 amp fuse wire around them, steam heating pipes are from .7mm rod with a sleeve of layout electrical wire pushed over them.  A Roxey etched screwlink coupling and a Westward ATC shoe completed the front end detail leaving just the lamp irons to be trued up.  Normally I make my etched number plates from Martin Finney's blank plates and individual numbers, alas they are unavailable at the moment so I ordered a set of these which in my opinion are superb.  You will have to paint the background yourself which isn't a big deal, just paint whole plate, leave them to dry for a day or so, then lay a piece of fine wet and dry paper on a flat surface and gently rub the plates until the paint is removed from the numerals and plate border thus exposing the brass surface.  Before I forget the cab is sitting high because the body and chassis are yet to be screwed together

Compare this view with photos 4 and 5, the moulding line has been cleaned up and the new chimney looks much better.  New lamp irons have been fitted beside the firebox and the other part of the sanding gear linkage can be seen emerging from the smokebox saddle.  I've also removed the rear sandbox fillers which were originally between the cab steps and pipework, a weather sheet will be added in due course which will be folded back over the cab roof.  The tender is a nice little model in itself and I've not done much work on it apart from adding real coal, its also been close coupled and provided with an etched fall plate, the rear lamp irons and the usual buffer beam detail can be seen in the photo below.


As these two photos show 2217 like the rest of my steam engines is finished in an almost filthy state, no gleaming brass, copper or Brunswick green paintwork here because this is how I remember steam engines in the fifties and early sixties, granted there were some exceptions but in places way off the beaten track like Llangunllo they were rare.


Weathering follows my usual methods of dry brushing areas of dark and light earth enamels around the running plate, frames, brake hangers, steps, firebox, smokebox saddle and any other areas where rust could be expected to gather.  Once the rust painted areas were dry the whole model was given a couple of light washes of Precision dirty black enamel, then with the paint still a little tacky a light dusting of soot and rust weathering powders together with a little talc was gently brushed on to add a little texture and blend the colours together.

I'm happy with how 2217 has turned out, she isn't perfect but is in my opinion fine for what Iain Rice would call a 'layout engine', could she be further improved ?  Well yes, you could fit the body to an etched chassis and model the inside motion but would you actually notice it when the engine was in use ?  So there you are, should you want the model of one of Collett's 2251 class then open your wallet and purchase the ex Martin Finney kit along with a tender to suit, if all goes to plan they will be available again this coming autumn from Brassmasters.  If etched kits aren't for you then you have a choice of the Wills whitemetal kit or you can make do with Bachmanns version modified or not.

Finally a few photos of 2217 earning her keep.........


Doing what she was designed for, 2217 slowly steams through Llangunllo with a goods train, I find it rather satisfying to sit back and watch trains like this slowly pass through the scene rather than just run to and fro between termini and cassette deck.




When the first batch of the BR Mk1 coaches arrived between 1951-1960 older coaching stock such as the WR Hawksworths were cascaded down onto secondary routes thus replacing even older coaches, so it was not unusual to see them used on local stopping services and excursions.

Collett Goods 2217 drifts into Llangunllo with the return working of a day excursion from Kington.
The train had been split at Llanbister Road with the main portion continuing to Shrewsbury, well I can dream can't I ?




Stokes Cottage a Feedstore and a Fergie.........

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Stokes cottage is finally complete and another job on the layout comes to a close, though it appears to be bedded down it can be removed to aid layout photography, as can the feedstore beside it.  The final jobs involved fitting the rainwater goods, old buildings such as this usually had cast iron gutters and down pipes so I've attempted to model them from Evergreen sections.  The outside tap is from the Ratio 419 kit of parts and the stone trough beneath it was made from some Milliput.



A few of the York Modelmaking slates have been picked out in different shades of grey enamel and the ridge tiles were given a wash of dark earth to create a sort of weathered terracotta look.  The plaster between the half timbering was coated with Johnsons Kleer, then using an old tea strainer some talc was applied over it to give a little more texture.  Once dry the surface was toned down with a light dusting of soot weathering powders.


I've made no further progress with modifying the Fergie tractor, whilst I shall add a number plate and tax disc I'm not sure whether my model will have a vertical exhaust or not.  The Routemaster shows just how small these little tractors are.


Plenty of detail here, older versions had a Standard Vanguard petrol engine as seen here, oh for the days of simple coils, dizzy caps and points but what about that sprung seat with its water drainage holes, pure magic.


This is the area which is giving me problems due to the small size of the model, I'll get there yet!
In the meantime I've been modifying more Ratio telegraph poles and hope to have them in place this weekend along with some level crossing warning signs.

Before and after, once the posts have been cleaned up and thinned down styrene weather caps are added to their tops.

Poles apart

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I spent the weekend finishing off the telegraph poles, I wasn't sure how far they should be spaced apart so I dug out my copy of 'Rail Model Digest No.6' for within its pages there is an excellent article on telegraph poles by Graham Warburton who certainly knows a thing or two about them as he is a retired S&T engineer. The article gives the pole spacings for heavy, medium and light cable runs, the poles that I have modelled are light duty for which a 65 yard spacing is quoted, apart from on curves and in exposed areas where the spacing is reduced to between 50 and 60 yards, well Llangunllo is certainly in an exposed area and on a curve so I settled on the shorter spacing.

Had I read the article earlier I could have saved myself some work because I modified twice the number of posts that I needed but at least I have a stock of spares.  In this view 1455 is passing through Llangunllo with the morning pick up goods.


A few other small jobs have been completed since the last update such as finally finishing the disused corrugated iron hut behind the signal.  I painted it in a mix of dark earth and dirty black enamels then gave it a dusting with rust weathering powder whilst the paint was still on the tacky side.  The powders helped create a few nicely textured areas of rust, in other places I've cut the rust and grime away with a fibreglass brush to reveal the original faded cream paintwork underneath.

Here are the other posts, the first two appear to be miles apart but are actually a scale 65 yards at this point or 59.44 metres if you have gone metric.  Its still in the late fifties at Llangunllo and imperial measurements are still very much in use, well that's my excuse.  The sun appears to be shining on the fields behind the bridge even though its overcast on this side of it.  Notice how the siding drops away below the level of the branch line.

More detail has also been added around the station building which has gained a water stand pipe and though you can't see them in this view some grids have been let into the platform surface below the downpipes, fire buckets and luggage trolleys should appear later this week.  I wasn't aware of the milk tanks on the sector plate when I took this photo, I think they look rather good and give the impression of a siding further along the line.
Another view of 1455 as she leaves Llangunllo with the goods, at some point I expect 7416 will make an appearance, the question is will she be a kit build or a converted Bachmann 64xx ?  One of the latter in ex works condition turned up at Llangunllo earlier in the week and although I've ordered a pair of Alan Jones excellent etched number plates I'm wondering if its going to be worth converting it to EM ?


In no way am I a rivet counter but I do feel those large splashers let the Bachmann model down and somehow the chimney doesn't look right to me ?

The afternoon passenger train with 1455 in charge rumbles over the river bridge and crossing on the approach to Llangunllo.


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